| It was in 2004. I was already an avid swimmer and was just getting into bodysurfing when I took my first trip to Waikiki. The first thing I did was to check out the waves at Fours. Even though it was too shallow and not breaking right for bodysurfing, I didn't care. I just wanted to be in the tropical waters.
When I walked back to the hotel to get a towel the guy who was working the booth asked how the water was. "It's always good," I replied. He smiled and asked where I was from. "California," I told him, "but my girlfriend and I just moved to Kona on the Big Island." He asked if I wanted to use a longboard. I admitted to him I had no idea how to surf and he said, "Well, you happen to be in the best spot on the planet to learn." He even offered me a Locals Only discount which meant I could use it for free. What could I do but agree?
For an hour I cruised around on the longboard missing countless waves. I was tired but happy just to be on the water staring at Waikiki's amazing shoreline. I could also smell the resorts breakfast buffet being cooked up. Feeling hungry I decided to head in. It was this moment when something in the universe clicked into place. A wave picked me up as I paddled. I pushed myself up and hopped to my feet. Lo and behold, I was riding my first wave. The wave just kept going and going and I heard this Yeeeha! came out from somewhere deep within me.
I'll never forget how amazing that first ride was. Now when I think about who I am, I always include the ocean. And I will forever remember Fours.
H.P. Mandrake, 2009
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