the ghost of Butch Van Artsdalen, 2003
Threes is the quintessential break. It has a perfect right (for longboarding).
It has a long wall. It peels right off and it barrels more times than
not. Threes is one of the furthest breaks, if not the furthest. It is
about 450 strokes out, breaking anywhere from 1/3 to 1/2 of a mile from
shore. The distance keeps a lot of surfers away.
I found it by accident. The day I arrived in Hawaii in 1992, I went
straight into the water right outside of the Sheraton. I drifted, unintentionally,
to Threes.
There
were already a lot of people there. Most were regulars. I had to bide
my time to catch a break. Some days, I would be there for 5 hours and
only get 3 or 4 rides. I had to show my respect to the regulars by not
taking every ride. It took a couple of weeks of me going every single
day for them to finally get the idea that I wasnt going to go
away.
I moved to an apartment close by just so I could surf Threes every day.
The only free parking on my street had just been eliminated, so this
reduced the number of surfers going there.
The
way that Threes got its name is debatable. Some say that it is named
for all the things that happen in threes here: it has three breaks going
out and three breaks going sideways (i.e. it has three different spots
it can break at). There is also a story that there were three brothers
who use to surf here all the time.
Others
say that it was named after Lifeguard Tower #3 that was on shore there.
This is the explanation that makes the most sense to me, cause the next
break is called Fours (after Lifeguard Tower #4).
The
season in Waikiki is in the summer. Mothers Day kicks it off and
is traditionally known as the best day to surf. There is usually a major
swell at this time. Surfers are extra nice to their mothers for weeks
before this so that it will swell that day.
In 1995 there was an exceptionally big swell at Threes. The kind of swell
that occurs only once every 20 or 25 years. It lasted for two weeks.
Waves got up to 12 feet high (measured the old-fashioned way from the
back of the wave). Some say they were even bigger. All the greats were
there!
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